Meet the maker Bio page

The Double Bass Banjo's

The Banjo Cello family

The Recycled Resonator Guitars

Electric Violins

Drums

My own instrument collections

unfinished instruments

List of things for sale and pricing

Links for your further exploration pleasures

       The Eclectic Electric Basses

 

   I have made a few electric basses in a few different configurations that 

are uncommon and being a bass player myself I find it exciting to try 

things out and experiment with the different sounds a bass can make and

to know better what a nice bass should be like in terms of balance and feel.

   The third one I finished (after the fretted one I made when I was in my

twenties and the one that got stolen) was this next one shown here which 

I finished in my 38th year. It is a four course frettless electric with octave

strings on the top two courses. The pickups are Bartolini Classic Bass dual 

rail humbuckers, the neck is Maple and the fretboard is of Cooktown 

Ironwood.

   The body is blackwood with silky oak sides and the nut and two bridges  

are brass. The bridge pieces are glued directly into the body with the 

stringsgoing through to the back. 

   I love the Bartolini J/P style pickups and sounds really lively and I usually

play it with a bit of the treble rolled off and the blend pot slightly biased to

the neck pickups.

  I put a phase switch in that changes the tone so the sound is really flexible

in the mids which is handy because the mids go off.

  This is for sale at the moment so feel free to make a bid via email or try it

out next time you come to Nimbin town. Happy High Herbs is where it 

hangs.




 The next is a the first in a series; a fretless five string (which is finished and awaits

someone willing to bid on it too. It has Silky Oak sides, an Ooline fretboard

and EMG (usa) soapbar pickups I scored from the lovely folk at Frank Foredom

music.

 It has a really comfortable, balanced feel and hugs your body and a super nice

neck. It is, I think, the best bass I have ever made and has a nice tight bottom

string and lots of sustain and oomph. Very solid and warm sounding and great

Jaco mwaaaah tops and a really chunky attack. I ended up putting the bridge 

onto a piece of the moody gum instead of the rosewood shown as it cracked when 

I screwed on the bridge, it sounded slightly warmer. The electrics have  tone,

volume and blend and also a phase switch. 

 

  The next is a fretted four string with a hipshot whammy bar, the fretboard is

Ooline, the sides Silky Oak and it has a Wilkinson humbucking bridge pickup and

the neck one is a Bartolini soapbar.

   I am glad I made it really light because the bridge weighs heaps and it has

turned out really comfortable as it has the concave body shape at the back

and is balanced really well. The tuners are Gotoh and the veneer on the

headstock was blackwood but I ended up taking it off. The first photo shows

the carbon fibre rods I put in next to the trussrod which makes it really stiff

so I make stainless trussrods so as to be able to crank it in case it needs to

move one day. It has really amazing sustain which I didn't expect from the

trem and feels, sounds and plays beautifully.

   It just finished being fretted and lovingly hand buffed and a switch put in to

simplify the electrics and I hung it in the shop after playing it once and it sold

immediately; no wonder, the idiots in the shop put a $375 dollar price tag on

it! That is about what I spent on the trem and machine heads alone!

aaaaaaargh!!?

   Mr Benjamin Blackman from New Zealand is very happy with the deal and

loves the bass but hasn't felt any urge to cover the cost of parts for me, which

I thought to be a very fair offer. At least it is out there and being gigged I

guess. I can't help feeling pretty discouraged having got next to nothing for

two basses now and haven't worked on anything for a while but I slog on.

Send us a sound sample Ben! It goes here;

 

As you can see it has double carbon fiber rods and a stinless truss rod to

bend it at all.There were mudwasps in it at one stage as you can see in

the next photo pre-profiling and fret job.

 

                                 

   The electrics got a bit changed and my friend steve did a great job doing the fret sand and buff too.

We were very proud of the results. I still have the whammy bar...

 

   The third will be another 5 string fretless and has a much chunkier neck

which has the Moody Gum between two rosewood laminates instead. It 

has beautiful Red Forest Oak sides and a fretboard of Cooktown Ironwood

which will be bright as it is so incredibly hard and silicous wood. I have tried

to glue it down three times but never got a good enough result so I am

going with the ooline for the replacment fretboard. Gerard did warn me it

was hard to get glue to stick to and when you feel how glassy it is you

understand why. The piece I used on the six string stuck fine but was from

a different tree... It was a shame because I had cut fretslots, profiled and

sanded and polished it, these are the trials one faces budding experimental

luthiers, be forewarned!

   It needs a fretboerd, a new neck shape, final sanding, painting, assembly,

setup and some nice fat jazz Bartolini CB pickups have been waiting to jump

right in.

   I kind of wanted a six string but I couldn't find a six string bridge with close

enough spacing and so now I am contemplating making it tuned F#, B, E, A

and D as a contra-bass five string bass. I want to see if it could work well at

those frequencies way down there sort of like a drop tuned bass, and not

get too floppy sounding (a lot of 5/6-strings suffer from this on the 

botttom B to my taste, I think because they're not solid enough necks, built

trying to get a not too cumbersome feeling neck with the slick modern c

profile doesn't make for much solidness in the sound. I played an SRV strat

which has a chunky neck and Stevie used thick strings and a, to modern

standards high action, but did he get the tone! This one is an experiment in

that concept; very solid and thick in the neck so I will get to see how much the 

tone will differ due to this factor and see if I am right.

   I think it has a good chance of hacking the extra strain of the super heavy

strings and sounding solid trying to hold the nut still at the same time, It is all

about those minute oscillations at the nodes at the nut and bridge and the

interplay of the neck and the strings, more experimentation required...

                            



   They last three are all made with laminated through necks using Moody

Gum (the bright yellow stuff) and NSW rosewood (red) which my good

friend Gummy gave me. He had salvaged it from the wreckage caused by

the year 2000 cyclone that hit his place up in Cape Tribulation. The Rose-

wood was a giant 3800+ year old which fell on the moody gum and took it

out too, so these trees were side by side for probably six centuries and

hopefully will be for quite a few more in these bass necks. The sides are silky

oak in the first two, family (Grevillea,) but the last one has the wood of a

more tropical native variety which is harder and redder and has even more

amazing grain and larger medullary rays and polishes up a treat;  red forest

oak, also from north Queensland.

   Ooline is a very rare wood and is also known as solidwood for good

reason. It is a single species remnant of a genus of trees which once

covered the earth in dinosaur times and is now rare and endangered.

   A local wood harvester found a big old dead one some thirty years ago

and milled it into 4x4 inch chunks and left it in the weather in his timber

yard. He recommended it to me and when i asked what it is used for he

said nobody has heard of it, but wood collectors sometimes buy it as a

sample piece. As it has been unheard of I took it as a certainty that if he

recommended it it would work and he proceeded to show me how it cut

across the grain, I was convinced. No fluff and a sharp edge like I had

never seen. If you can't mark it with your fingernail it is hard enough for

a fretboard is a good guide, said Gerard to me when I asked him and it

passed that test.

   When I took some home I took about 5mm off the outside and it was

pristine and hadn't checked out at the ends more that 7mm either,

remarkable for such a dense, hard timber which usually would rip itself

to bits in these conditions from internal tension as it dried. 

   Cooktown Ironwood is the hardest wood I have ever seen and is very

stiff and beautiful but I am disinclined to use it too much as it is a bit hard

to glue and even better, the sawdust gives me nosebleeds, good to avoid

anything toxic like blackbean and red sirus and I guess there must be

others and various people have various intolerances build up, not much is

known about sawdust really but it is worth it to spend the money on a

good dust mask that works.

   These are all Australian timbers and are all sustainably harvested and

rarely to be found used in instruments although they are very stable and

well suited.

   Thanks Stan, Gummy and Andrew for these lovely pieces of wood.

Check out the 8-stringed fretless basses as well. 

 

   I am also making some rosewood Ashbory basses and one is finished

and for sale. It sounds more woody and a bit fatter as it has the up-

grade piezo pickup I bought from the inventor Alun Ashworth and a

much thinner neck which is a bit more reactive to the strings hence the

woodier tone. 

   I own a Fender de Armond one in black and I am really impressed with

it and I have started a craze in the region amongst bass players and have

sold about a dozen.

    Many thanks to the spirit of Alun for his hard work in getting this 

wonderful thing  happening. He was a lovely man and I am also grateful

for his correspondence and sharings on the subject of piezo magic. I got

one of his bass/cello pickups for the resonator cello and it really filled out

the bottom end beautifully. 

   I used his basic 4 and luxury 5 string violin pickup for the electric

violins as well and they are really good.

   I have made them of various scale lengths, all a bit longer than

the standard 18". I had to change the headstock because they

need a lot more room for the knots to miss each-other and the

tuners only wind one way so I had to chop the heads off and make

new ones and graft them on but it came out well.

   One day I will make a five string version in moody gum I think. I

have angled the nut and bridge a bit to see if it easier to intonate,

put the strap posts on the headstock, (I moved it on my standard

one too or it seems to want to dive under my left arm,) made the 

necks thinner and slung the electronics under the bridge instead

of behind and put little legs on them to make them even shorter

and cuter and they so they can be stood up too which I like.

   They are a fair bit lighter than Fender's one too and feel

and play very differently. I am curious to try some different 

strings out too. I have seen silicone and polypropylene as well

as polyurethane and am curious...I have seen the concept copied

already by cheap asian ukelele making companies making a semi

acoustic uke bassand they sellthe black strings, might have to try

some polymer variations over scale length experiments myself, I

am sure Al would be smiling down on us having such fun rubberbassin'

When I look at them I wish I had gone with the friction tuners or making

my own special tuners because I liked how the shapes had come about

from attempting to get three from one piece of wood and I only had little

scraps left for pendants in the end, then used an offcut to make new

heads so I could use the proper machine heads with their funky shaped

posts. I have to make my own nuts because they are not a spare part but

stock circuits, machine heads, pickups and bridges and knobs are available,

I get them from largesound.com my favorite Ashbory site.




love those rosewood knobs, and I made my own wooden bridge as Al suggested to get a woodier tone which did work I think and

when I see how the different scale lengths and neck thicknesses I tried affect the sound I might learn something. The thinnest neck

when strung up feels very different under your fingers both to play and especially to feel as it is definitely reacting a lot more to the

string which I think is making it sound woodier. The next one is the thickest neck and the third has a plastic bridge and medium thick

neck. I love Australian rosewood, what a magnificent tree and such nice timber to work and to look at and to smell.